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The ground floor of a turn-of-the-century town house has been turned into a small, luxurious dining spot. The chef, Laurent Tourondel, cooks with imagination and refinement. Appetizers include peekytoe crab, with gelee of vine ripe tomato; grilled shrimp and baby squid, cheese ravioli, basil coco bean bouillon; carpaccio of Alaskan salmon and citrus caviar cream; and marinated ahi tuna, with caramelized lemon and pepper greens. Entrees include wild striped bass with capers, basil and Parmesan risotto; Atlantic turbot with sage-wrapped foie gras and fingerling potato; Alaskan black cod, with black trumpet bouillon, asparagus and truffles; and cocotte of lamb shank and lemon confit. Desserts include warm chocolate cake with mint emulsion, and crispy meringue, with banana-passion fruit sorbet. (Review: 8/11/99) Circus is usually packed with Brazilians eager for a taste of home. The charming circus drawings on the wall -- acrobats, prancing horses and adorable tigers -- give the place a festive feeling. The dominant ingredients on the menu (other than beef) are seafood, coconut, rice and beans, often combined in fascinating ways. Appetizers include a salad of watercress with chorizo, tomatoes and smoked mozzarella; papaya and tyger shrimp salad with fresh dill and yogurt dressing; and corn polenta cakes baked with manchego cheese. Current entrees include pan-seared salmon steak with potato crust, cabbage and shiitake mushroom; pan-seared medallions of filet mignon with onion and Madeira wine sauce; and shrimp sauteed with shallots, fresh corn, hearts of palm and peas served baked inside acorn squash. The desserts are sweet and tropical, like the banana caramelada, which is Grand Marnier-caramelized banana with vanilla ice cream. (Review: 5/16/97)

The New York times, 1999-11-28

Small Worlds On the East Side: Review

In an area where just-out-of-college revelers bounce among a multitude of bars, La Foret is an adult refuge, a small, simply decorated place that turns out exquisitely composed dishes at affordable prices. When it's available, risotto is a rich, delicious appetizer. Mussels are small and tender, terrific in their slightly thickened sauce of wine, garlic and herbs. The simple green salad arrives perfectly dressed, while arugula salad is served with marinated fennel and oranges. Among the main dishes, tender filet mignon is exceptional with sauteed spinach in a red wine sauce. Leg of lamb is slowly roasted with garlic and thyme and served with potato puree, vegetables and meat jus. Salmon is served with corn, sweet peas and shiitake mushrooms as well as sweet pea and red wine reduction sauces. For dessert, chocolate mousse is delicious. ($25 and Under: 5/20/98) Tucked away in an anonymous building in a residential neighborhood is La Fourchette, a luxurious, comfortable spot that has the air of a good Paris restaurant. Among the appetizers, an intensely flavored mussel curry soup topped with parsley whipped cream is excellent. Alternatively, there's lobster and artichoke salad with truffle vinaigrette, and grilled langoustine with wilted arugula and a gazpacho sauce. For the entree, squab is rare and tender, the breast wrapped in swiss chard leaves and set on a bed of mousseline potatoes showered with black truffle sauce. Also good is the fillet of beef and braised short ribs with Yukon gold crushed potatoes. Chilean sea bass with leeks, hen of the woods mushrooms and a lobster coral sauce is a recent addition to the menu. To end the meal: warm chocolate cake, served with coconut ice cream. (Review: 11/4/98)

The New York times, 1999-07-25

Breaking the Mold In Yorkville: Review

As a chef, David Bouley has it all -- elegance, finesse and flair. His flavors are extraordinarily clear and exquisitely balanced; his use of seasoning is so deft as to be insidious. Appetizers include chilled oysters on the half shell with a wine and shallot dressing; grilled Italian eggplant and goat cheese terrine with aged balsamic vinegar; and sashimi of tuna with baby fennel and fresh herb oils. Entrees include rack of lamb with green Swiss chard, pearl onions and fresh sage sauce; breast of Long Island duck with baby leaf spinach and glazed turnip puree; and Chatham codfish with fava and lima beans, glazed turnips and bouillabaisse sauce. Desserts include warm raspberry and chocolate tart, cacao nougatine and pure Venezuelan chuao chocolate sorbet; pineapple carpaccio, crystalized coriander and lime sorbet; and hot chocolate brioche pudding with chocolate sorbet and prune Armagnac and maple ice creams. (Review: 9/15/99) This comfortable Italian restaurant is casual and arty. And on the whole Gigino's pastas are impressive. Starters include eggplant baked with pomodoro sauce, basil, mozzarella, parmesan cheese and minced olives; fried calamari with spicy pomodoro sauce; and mixed pasta and cannellini soup flavored with prosciutto. Entrees include Gigino's signature dish with spaghetti, beets, escarole, garlic and olive oil flavored with anchovy; broiled salmon coated with macadamia nuts served with zucchini pappardelle and brown butter; and chunks of boneless chicken sauteed with onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sausage, herbs and lightly spiced pomodoro. (Review: 10/21/94; New York Today: April 1998)

The New York times, 2000-04-02

Earning Their Stars In TriBeCa: Review

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Small Worlds On the East Side: Review

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Breaking the Mold In Yorkville: Review

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Earning Their Stars In TriBeCa: Review

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Earning Their Stars In TriBeCa: Review

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